Friday 12 February 2016

My Pat Mcgrath inspired look

So today was all about glitters and pigments and choosing an image we wanted to recreate of the work of the talented Pat Mcgrath so I choose the image that stood out to me the most and what I felt looked creative and wanted to create this myself with the image shown below this is the image I choose to create this lesson.



Fig 1- Mcgrath,P. (2006). fall2006. Available: https://www.pinterest.com/dammdamm4/pat-mcgrath/. Last accessed 07 feb 2016.


And for this lesson I actually took step by step which I normally do forget! so with each image I'm going to explain what I'm doing and why!


To start this look off I first cleansed and toned my models skin leaving the moisturising to after I've applied my Pat Mcgrath inspired eye, as the cleanse and toning the skin will take any make up off the face and any oils as the masking tape won't stick correctly and will tend to lift from the skin and wont give me the sharpe shape I want to create  in the style of Pat Mcgraths work. Once cleansed and toned the face I then applied masking tape in the similar shape but instead of doing both eyes I wanted to add my style to the image and just masked one eye and not both.


So once I applied the masking tape to the models face I applied as my Base MAC gel liner black track this was for a base for the glitter taking this around the the outer shape of the eye and bringing the liner the underneath of the brow and going thinner on the bridge of the nose and then bringing down to where the tape ends.


Next going in underneath the brow highlighting this area using Kroylan white liner in colour clown white taking this out to where the black liner end. With this highlighting the brow but also helping to enhance the shape and the sharpness of the black liner that is applied above the white liner and blended this into the brow bone blending this down so this will blend with the the black underneath what I will be applying next to the lid.


To complete the base of the lid I then went back in with MAC black track eye liner to the base of the lid and blending this into the white clown liner, and blending this black out winged like the the rest of the eye and when blending causes for the the colour to lighten so to get the black really black I just kept building the colour till I was happy! For the liner going back to using the Kroylan white clown liner taking this into the lash line and taking it straight out with the winged eye. this is to really highlight that eye amongst all the black.


With the eye really starting to come together I wanted to complete the blending of the eye as to me it would make the look unfinished so between the white clown on the brow and the black track on the lid in between I went in and blended out MAC electra shadow to finish that section of the eye.
And to finish the liner I took the white clown under the eye and winged this out to blend with the shadows.


Putting the final touches to the base for the glitter, applying black track under the eye and blended to give that smudge look under the eye as I didn't want to give that clean sharpe finish like the above on the eye. And wanted it similar to the inspired image of mcgraths work.


To finish the eye was the final touch of some sparkle! Using illamasqua pigment in colour android this being a black glitter based pigment to start helping reflect in the style of Pat Mcgraths work. Applying  on the black track under the bottom white clown liner to give a dusty pigmented daze under the eye. For the lid I then worked into the crease to really enhance the models socket line, as my black track was really holding the MAC black glitter I applied DUO eye lash glue with one of my flat brushes applying the glue into the socket line and then waiting a few moments for the lash glue to become tacky so the glitter applies better as if I applied when really wet I think it would make my glitter to become dull so waiting a few moments for it to become tacky it applies better and wont make my glitter dull but sparkle. Also applying the DUO glue to the top corner to apply more of the sparkle but I didn't want to apply too much as I'm sticking to the less is more!!


So finishing my Pat Mcgrath eye and cleaning up all that sparkle that dropped onto the cheek was ready to apply my base! I wanted a a really matte look with a slight contour into the cheekbone nothing too heavy as its all about the eye and the lip today! So because I didn't moisturise when I prepped the skin as I didn't want it to cause my masking tape to lift so that's why I left it till now applying the moisturiser to the skin making sure there's no dry parts as I want a matte finish and if any dryness is left this would show on camera! So while letting the moisturiser set into the skin I mixed my foundation using MAC full coverage mixing the colours NC15 and NC25 to get my models skin tone applying to my models chin making sure the colour matches my models neck. Blending and buffing into the skin and taking onto the models neck, after applying the base I concealed under the eye using my MAC medium concealer palette using NC30, NC25 mixed with some mid yellow tone. Mixing these colours together to mix the colour and apply under the eye buffing this in and making sure its well applied and then powdering under the eye using Kroylan translucent so this doesn't move or crease, And then powdering the rest of the face making sure its a matte look as I wanted. For the contour I went in with using MAC contour powders shadester and shadowy to slightly pick up my models cheekbone to give slight structure to the whole image its self.

Happy with my base, so was now time to recreate those lips! Using MAC black track only applying to the bow of the lip and then for the outer edges of the lip applied Kroylan white clown eye liner and powdered this down making it look matte and then MAC gloss to the black bowed lip to show a glossed shine! Finishing up the look with grooming the naked brow with MAC brow gel and then MAC mascara to both lashes to darker and complete my look.



Products used:

Masking tape
Cleanse, tone and moisturiser 

Eye: Mac black track eye liner, kroylan white liner clown white, 
MAC shadow electra, ILLAMASQUA pure pigment- android 
Base: MAC full coverage NC15, NC25 
Concealer: MAC medium concealer palette NC30, NC25, yellow mid tone
Powder: Kroylan translucent
Contour: MAC contour powder, shadester and shadowy
Lip: MAC black track and Kroylan white clown liner, MAC gloss
Brow: MAC brow gel 
Mascara: MAC mascara

Evaluation

I well and truly loved creating this make up! I really enjoyed applying this look and loved getting creative and adding glitter! I was really happy with my overall outcome I felt everything went smoothly and all the products I decided to use to apply worked really well.
The only thing I changed throughout the application is the white liner along the lash line and in the first picture of applying the white liner is winged out but I wasn't so keen! So to over come this I went over the winged area in black track and then illamasqua pure pigment so this would cause the liner to end at the end of the lash line.
If I was to to do this look again I would most definitely apply this to both eyes as I just think its a stunning make up and enjoyed applying this beautiful creative sparkle Pat Mcgrath inspired look!









No comments:

Post a Comment