Starting with blocking the brow first Branka, applied spirit gum to her eye lash brush and wait about 20 seconds for this to go tacky once has waited for the spirit gum to go tacky she went into the brow but taking it through the wrong direction and coat them in this direction first with going right down to the base getting every single hair covered so that the hairs don't start to lift. In theatrical and period make up we was shown to brush the brows up against the skin but in fashion Branka is showing us by brushing the brows back into its normal direction to the side because if she brushes the brow up onto the skin it gives her more to hide and not giving such as a clean finish. To really flatten to the model skin she next used a spatula to press down the hairs, sometimes she uses her hands but finds it does become a bit messy so this technique does the job but also mess free!
Once flattened her brow with no hairs sticking up or out Branka then cleaned around the brow on the skin this is because it will create a shiny layer which you have three types of spirit gum them being:
HD spirit gum: HD spirit gum is clear and has no colour to it, is fantastic to use but Branka found is when it goes cold it goes white. And would have to take it off and re do it.
Standard spirit gum: This is the spirit gum we have in our kit and is most commonly used, which sticks really well but would suggest when getting a new spirit gum to leave the lid off for a day or so this will help for the spirit gum to apply better and dry quicker but the down fall of this spirit gum is it does dry shiny.
Matte spirit gum: This product is really good for wig lace work and theatre work as it has no shine to itself.
For this look Branka would normally use HD or standard spirit gum, Next Branka took a clean eye shadow brush and using some MME to clean up any excess that has gone onto the skin as she doesn't wait it to show up in the make up. MME is sprit gum remover which is very mild and oil based that is kind to the skin. Once Branka had cleaned up around the brow it was ready to set by using Ben Nye fair powder and pressing this all into the brow using a powder puff and then leaving this to set as Branka told us an important tip is time giving your self time to apply a good blocked out brow because if you dont give yourself time between each layer the hairs will start coming through and this will create more work for yourself so Branka likes to give at least a minute with each layer and likes to pack the powder on instead of using a brush to apply the powder likes to use a powder puff cause then you can really press this into your brow. Because when she applied her spirit gum and went in the wrong direction first this really coated the lashes so when she pressed the down they have all glue themselves to each other where as if you only spirit gummed the top layer you would find the brows would start to lift.
Now to start blocking the brow Branka applied D32 from the derma palette to the whole of the because when you have any dark undertones you need to neutralise them first before you go in with your concealer and if you dont do this first and skip this step will cause a big struggle for yourself to create this blocked out brow. Once applied D32 to the whole of the brow but only the brow not taking this onto the skin, then powdered the brow really pressing into the brow and once applied wait for a minute for this to set in. If Branka had a model with very dark eye brows after she had let that first layer set she would go back in with D32 again to really take the darkness out and then go in with her powder puff and press the powder into the D32 again.
After the D32 had set into the brow Branka started to warm up her concealer from the derma palette using D3,D7,D6,D2 warmed this up making sure is mixed well and warm as if it is stiff still when applied to the brow this will cause all the work underneath to lift and merge from the brow so is very important its mixed well and only applied to the brow of the D32.
To apply the concealer to the brow Branka used a flat eye shadow brush and worked from the outside, inwards and normally goes a little out than the normal brow once applied leaves to set a minute and goes in with a buffing brush blending this into the skin.Once finished blending Branka then powder this down and getting ready for the final layer.
Repeating again warming up the concealer colour and this time applying with a foundation brush and applying again just slightly around the brow so Branka has space for blending as you don't want to blend on top of the brow only around as on the brow you should only stipple colour on and not blend as this could move all the under layers. Then giving one more set of powder and then ready to go in with her foundation, for the foundation Branka used MAC face and body which is quite a light foundation because she went in thick with the brow it doesn't mean you have to go thick coverage with the skin once applied lightly dusted the face with powder and then went in with her contour using MAC sculpt with a fan brush and making this really strong once all contour applied went onto highlighting with a fluffy eye shadow brush using revolution the middle pink shimmer and applying to the brow and the cheekbone making this highlight intense like the contour giving a highly contrast look.
Next created her lace mask using black body paint from mehron and when mixng this Branka mixed it to a good custard consistency and then started with the liner going with a very extreme liner going from right in the corner and then straight out to the end of the lashes going in the style of masquerade/1920's not swirly but quite nice art noeavou movements and try's to do in one stroke, as if you keep stopping and going you will get jagged edges, once finished her lace would then apply mascara and that's her blocked brow lace work with a slight stain to the lip and slight colour to the eye to tie it all in!
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