Thursday 19 November 2015

Demo: Smoky eye/ glossy smoke

For this lesson Branka showed us how do create a classic smoky eye developed into a glossy smoked look with strong contoured base.
She first cleansed her models skin, applied oil and for the moisturizer instead of just applying the moisturizer to the models face with her fingers she used her foundation brush getting this to soften the brush ready for the foundation as she will be using full coverage to straight out contour and highlight with and buff into the skin no base underneath and full cover rage can be quite hard to buff out I think so this is a real good tip to know!
Starting with the eyes first taking MAC black track eye liner onto a spectacular the reason being for Branka working from the spectacular is because if she was to work off her hand the gel liner would tend to dry up so working from this instead wont dry up so much and wont loose product.
Applying liner with an synthetic brush taking the liner up to the crease and no higher once applied liner all on the lid working into the lash line lifting the brow to get right into the lash line then quite fast she blended out the liner as this dry's quick so she had to work quick with it, also applying to the water line and using a cotton bud to soften the underneath.
To really darker the black liner on top of the eye placing carbon on the lid building this colour making it more black than black but not taking this any higher than the crease, blending brul onto the brow bone following onto blending cork into the crease once done so she blended her final colour bringing this slightly lower using the colour brun all from the MAC shadow palette.
For the base she used MAC full coverage highlighted using NC15 everywhere she wanted parts of the face to bring forward next her middle tone using NW25 NC15 mixed, leaving a gap for the contour using NW35 once all applied to the skin she started working into the highlight first and then set lightly as she wanted a dewey look. Next worked into the middle tone following the contour.
Next step defining the brow combing through MAC clear gel and worked tope into them with a flat brush and lightly buffed the brows up.
Going back to the eyes to make these really dark she worked carbon into the back of her hand so this wont cause any drop out when working back onto the lid and taking it under the eye using her pencil brush and used topee on top to soften out then buffing in brul finishing the the lower line.
Back to carbon again to work into the lash line lifting the brow to press the pigment into the lid really building this colour to make it bold. finishing the eye applying mascara through the lashes.

Finishing the skin Branka applied YSL bronze number 2 applying to where the sun would naturally hit the face but not applying heavy just lightly to the face to give a warmth feel to the face. For the lip she wanted a nude lip so used naked lip liner to outline the lip and then for the lipstick mixed a tiny bit of plum to the foundation and mixed what gave a nude colour applied to the lip adding gloss on top.
And for final touches used Ben Nye shimmer to the highlighted areas applied with a fluffy brush really making those cheekbones stand out!!








The final look

For the final look I loved it! I think its a beautiful look for camera, cat walk anything in fashion! And next Branka shows us how to vamp this look....



Final vamp version

To vamp this look Branka firstly used Vaseline applying this to the models lid with her ring finger dappling all over the lid giving that beautiful gloss effect! To give that extra glowing gloss look to the face she lightly applied with her ring finger with Vaseline again to top of the cheekbone taking it up lightly above the brow and also applying to bridge of the nose this is go just give that extra dewey-ness! For the lip outlined the lip with MAC liner plum , filling the lip with the liner as this will prolong the lipstick wear. Finally applying lip with MAC lipstick plum, Branka changed her classic smoky look to this beautiful vamp look literally in 5 minutes which is a great tip to know!





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