Monday 23 November 2015

Classic smoky eye

First cleansed my models skin, applied oil and for the moisturiser instead of just applying the moisturiser to the models face like I normally would with a pad or my fingers I used foundation brush getting this to soften the brush ready for the foundation as I will be using full coverage and find this foundation quite hard to buff into the skin as I find it quite an tough foundation to work into the skin so knowing this tip will hopefully help me work the foundation into the skin easier and hopefully come to terms with using this product as I'm not such a fan of full coverage for this reason!

Starting with the eyes first taking MAC black track eye liner onto a spectacular the reason being for me working from the spectacular is because if I was to work off my hand the gel liner would tend to dry up so working from this instead wont dry up so much and wont loose product.
Applying liner taking the liner up to the crease and no higher once applied liner all on the lid working into the lash line lifting the brow to get right into the lash line I then applied to the water line and using a cotton bud to soften the underneath to take away any harshness and gives more of a smoky look!
To really darken the black liner on top of the eye I placed carbon on the lid pressing this into lid building this colour making it more black than black but not taking this any higher than the crease, blending brul onto the brow bone using a fluffy blending brush for the eyes as I didn't want this to be bold on the eye but just to slightly bring the brow bone forward following onto blending cork into the crease once done blended the final colour bringing this slightly lower using the colour brun all from the MAC shadow palette reason being for me adding these and blending them out above the black is because I think its always nice to have your blend out colours as it shows depth to the eye look and shows dark to light from you lid up wards towards the brow giving a nice finish. Repeating this but on the lower lash line layering the colours first applied cork then brun and final colour carbon which I buffed out on top making them smokey, to finish the eyes I applied mascara to give the finishing touch to the smokes.
For the base I used MAC full coverage highlighted using NC15 everywhere of the face I wanted to bring forward for the contour colour I used NW25 this was to put depth into areas I wanted to create depth on my models face what will also help the highlighted areas bring forward more, I started working into the highlight first and set lightly as I wanted a dewey look. Then worked the contour colour by buffing into the skin.
Once highlighting and contouring my model and making sure all blended and buffed into her skin, this being important its worked into the skin well as contour if not blended well can look dirty and not contoured so is always important this section it worked in well within the face. Following on defining the brow's combing through MAC clear gel and worked tope into them with a flat brush and lightly buffed the brows up doing this making them look on point framing the face well.
Going back to the eyes to make these really dark I worked carbon into the back of my hand so this wont cause any drop out when working back onto the lid and taking it under the eye using her pencil brush and used tope on top to soften out then buffing in brul finishing the the lower line.
Back to carbon again to work into the lash line lifting the brow to press the pigment into the lid really building this colour to make it bold, finishing the eye applying mascara through the lashes.

Finishing the skin I applied rimmel bronze light/medium applying to where the sun would naturally hit the face but not applying heavy just lightly to the face to give a warmth feel to the face. For the lip I created a nude lip so used naked lip liner to outline the lip and then for the lipstick mixed a tiny bit of plum to the foundation and mixed what gave a nude colour applied to the lip adding gloss on top, so we applying the lip but nothing bright or too much as we are making it all about the eyes! And you should always make it about either the eyes or the lip never too much going on otherwise you don't know where to look giving you no focus point.
And for final touches used vanilla pigment MAC to the highlighted areas applied with a fluffy brush really making those cheekbones stand out and look on point for camera!

                                     Classic smoky eye



Above is my final image of the classic smoky eye, next to vamp it up a little....

                                       Glossy smoky eye

To vamp the classic smoke giving that high fashion feel I applied Vaseline to my models lids with my ring finger taking this over the lid only taking this up to the crease and no higher like done previous with the black track liner giving the carbon a really gloss shine. Giving extra gloss to the skin I also applied down the bridge of the nose and the highlight of the cheekbone. Finishing the vamp look I applied MAC plum to the lip to change the lip tone from nude to a darker and deeper tone to really vamp this look up.




                                            Products used:
                                                               
                                                           
Base: Highlight- NC15 Contour- NW25
               Eyes: Lid- Carbon, Crease- Cork, Below Crease- Brun   Brows: brow gel MAC, shadow- Tope
Powder: Ben Nye- Fair
Extra Contour: Rimmel bronzing powder light/medium
Lips: First lip- Nude MAC liner with added plum MAC lipstick + gloss applied. Second lip- MAC plum
Mascara: MAC
Final touches: Vaseline

Evaluation

So the aim for this lesson was to create a classic smoky look the developing into a more vamp glossy look! When applying the gel liner to the models lid, like Branka had done I should of then quickly blended this out as you have to work with the product quick as it dry quick but I did forget this and instead of blending this out I actually went straight in on top with my carbon pressing this into lid and then buffing the shadow and the liner both out together, me then thinking why isn't this blending out properly then straight away I clicked I had missed that step out! I wouldn't say it effected my final look as I'm really happy with my eyes but it did take me longer to blend out making sure they didn't look so blunt but a good blend but because the liner did dry it was a lot harder t buff out than if I hadn't of missed that important step out, next time working with it quick so its not making more work for myself than needed! I feel I really done well with this look and was really happy with the final outcome and think it really shows a high fashion image! Out of the two images classic and glossy smoke my favourite outcome was the glossy look everything just comes out at you more and in both photographs its the image that catches my eye the most and I just love the final outcome! If I was to re-create this look I would make sure I don't forget the important step! So that I do get my application done in 30 minutes and don't take so long on the eyes!

Practice of the smokes







                                                                  

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