Hair: Part 1 French pleat

For this lesson Emma demonstrated a French pleat to us that would suit the red carpet showing a beautiful elegant look, with back combing the hair all out this will give volume to the hair and body making it easier for the style to stay in place. Combing all the right side round to the centre of the back of the head smoothing this out and pinning about 4 grips to hold this in place and then brushing and smoothing the other side out, bringing in the section towards the gripped centre and rolling this and then turning upside which this will create the roll and holding this in place start to pin to make secure and finishing off making the fringe fancy smoothing over and applying the ends to blend in with top of the pleat.

( Stylist Emma Coombs )

So after seeing the demo by Emma was our turn to apply this style I sectioned my fringe out as I wanted to add this in to the style near the end of styling the hair and then went onto back combing all the models hair which this will help give body and volume and also keeping my style together. Once I had back combed the hair I combed round all the right side of the hair making sure I've smoothed out and bringing this to the centre of the back of the models head to keep this in place I gripped in a line leading from the nape up towards the crown applying about four grips so that this will stay intact.

Now for the fiddly part,  smoothing out my back combed left side of the head leaving the front out still so this can add to the final style so smoothing out so the back combing isn't on show and brushing the hair round bringing it to the centre of the back of the head and then wrapping the hair round my two fingers and then turning this upside down and pining in place joining into the other grips I placed to keep this all in place.

Once all pinned and secured I brushed the front of the models hair making sure was all smoothed out and ready to style going into the top of the French pleat, taking this over brushing and smoothing over top of the head taking to the left side and then taking into a swirl of the direction of the top of my French pleat I created, using my very fine pins to insert to making sure they cant be seen but hold the front of the hair well into the French pleat and then light sprayed with hair spray to fix and to hold giving that final touch.

Evaluation

For this up do it did take me a few attempts as I did at first a little fiddly to begin with creating the pleat but after I got the hang of it it did get easier with turning the pleat and as it kept going too loose but after keep trying I got my French pleat! If I was to attempt this style again I would maybe make the front of the hair more styled and maybe while applying the pleat have the front of the hair kept in heated rollers so when I've applied the pleat take my rollers out brush out the curls so it will create a nice wave to work with! giving a nice gorgeous up do.   

Bleached brow by me

So after being shown our demo for the bleached brow it was our turn to create this high fashion look! Starting off with prepping my models skin so its a fresh canvas, cleansing the skin making sure any excess make up is removed, toning to restore the PH balance in the skin and then moisturising taking away any dryness in the skin as I've worked with this model before and know she tends to suffer with dry patches within her skin so once I applied my moisturiser and let this set into the skin I then applied illamasqua hydra veil which will help lock in moisture to my models skin helping me for when I apply her base.

Once prepped my models skin I wanted to start on the eyes first this is so if I cause any drop out when applying the eyes its easier for me to clean up rather than apply the base then eyes and cause drop out then having to ruin my base, so this is why I start with the eyes first. 

Firstly priming the lids this will keep my shadow intact as priming the eye is always good otherwise by the end of the day the shadow could end up smudged all over the eye where as when a primer in place this will avoid this and keep the eyes looking gorgeous all day and night! For the eye primer I used the BALM, then dusted MAC brule giving a light base, MAC cork blended into the crease and then MAC brun blended out on top into the corner of the nose once blended I then applied MAC amber lights the lid and dusting this over lightly and winging the eye out giving more of a winged look I applied MAC brun into the lash line and bringing this outwards of the eye creating a nice winged shape to darken this a little I applied carbon on top just to frame the eye more, also taken this under the lower lash line to finish the winged eye, finishing the eye off with applying MAC mascara.

For the models base I first applied MAC strobe cream giving that glowing look applying all areas of the face once all buffed into the skin I started to mix my foundation using MAC full coverage as I wanted a full coverage complexion and this suits well. Mixing NC15, NC25, NC35 once mixed applied to my models skin and buffed out over the skin, and then powdered my models face with Kroylan translucent dusting this over the face to set the base.

Next I went on with my bronzer using Rimmel natural bronzer colour 022 sun bronze taking this onto the cheekbone to give that bronzed look then going in with my contour colours to add depth and structure to the models face first using MAC shadester and then taking shadowy right into the the top of the cheekbone that will create a nice depth shadow to the cheekbone and to make it pop using my MUA highlighter stick in light applying lightly to the hight of the cheekbone and the bridge of the models nose. Once highlight and contoured my models face I moved onto applying the bleached brow effect because my model has really dark brows I mixed from my derma palette using D32 which will be my warmth that will help take out any darkness and mixed D1,D2 and D4 and applied to the brow brushing the brow in the wrong direction really brushing them through making sure all hairs are covered finishing off with combing MAC brow gel through to set the brow. To finish my whole look I applied to the lip MAC please me, amorous and some of the foundation I used for my model mixed together and lightly applied to finish off.

Products used

Skin: MAC strobe cream

Base: MAC full coverage NC15, NC25, NC35

Powder: Kroylan translucent powder

Eyes: MAC brula, cork, brun, amber lights, carbon

Mascara: MAC mascara

Bronzer: Rimmel natural bronzer, sun bronze 022

Contour: MAC contour powder, shadester, shadowy

Highlighter: MUA highlighter stick- light

Brows: Derma palette, D32, D1, D2 and D4- MAC brow gel 

Lip: Models foundation, MAC lip palette please me and amorous

Evaluation 

If I was to do this look again there most definitely a few things I would change! I wasn't so happy with this outcome at all because I don't feel I went dark enough on the eye I mist defiantly could of gone darker but I did like the blend and the winged out shape I created so next time I would go darker giving more of a smoky look to the eye! The brows I first didn't apply enough D32 as the brows still were showing threw and not giving that bleached effect, with Branka giving the tip of needing more warmth I felt they did look more bleached after Branka giving me tips but in the photos still show the brow being a little dark but my models brows were basically borderline black so was a bit harder than having other models of the class.

So with this lesson not being my lesson I didn't match the skin tone correctly, today I was a lot slower and when it came to the base I did start to rush and started to apply to the face realising time was running out I just buffed into the skin when really I should of colour corrected as I made the skin warmer than it should of been and that shouldn't be the case cause I know 100 percent I can colour match! 

Making the lip warmer would of made this a lot better too so today I felt I got the base and the lip mixed up and not sure what happened to work that day but its most definitely will be repeating! Look forward to uploading correct colour match of my work, as its embarrassing having this on my blog was so annoyed with myself but we all have bad days right?!

Demo: Bleached brow

The aim for the lesson was to give that really high fashion image and being shown how to create a bleached brow effect without actually using bleach but make up to imply that look! To compliment this look Branka showed us a strong contoured structure feel to the face with a winged out smoked eye!

So starting with the eyes first, Branka applied an eye base using MAC chilled on ice paint pot to the lids giving a beautiful shimmer and the taking a matte dusty pink over the top as the shimmer will still shine through, then using a dark brown going onto the crease using soft movements to the eye and the mixing the brown with another shimmer brown taking this close towards the lash line. also taking the shadow into the corner of the nose as she didn't want a pretty look but an high fashion look. To frame the eye more Branka then went in with a black working into the lash line and then taking this under the eye then finishing with taking abit more brown onto her blending brush and just blending a bit more brown into the crease, once finish the eye she began to clean up underneath and this is why its always good to apply eyes first and your base after.
Before applying the base Branka applied MAC strobe cream before applying her foundation once buffed into skin Branka applied Kroylan ultra to the skin buffing this in wanting it quite bland as she's going to making the face very contoured and giving a really nice bronzed glow, then setting her base with Illamasqua translucent powder dusting this over the face.
For the bronzer using too faced pour protecting bronzer colour light, as Branka mentioned she loves this product as its a matte and helps building lightly depth to the face applying this before the contour colour, to the areas she wants to apply depth mainly applying to the cheek bone and then dusting the forehead and around the jawline, then to apply the contour colour using medium contour kit by SLEEK hitting right under the cheek bone really applying depth and to bring areas of the face forward she applied MUA highlighter stick light to the areas she wanted to pop out. If Branka goes a bit heavy with the highlighter she would go back in with her bronzer lightly blending the edges a little bit.
Ready to apply the bleach brows taking a mascara wand creating a dirty blonde colour using the derma concealer palette and mixing the colours D10 and D6 sometimes need abit of D7 to add a bit of warmth because the darker the brow the more warmth you need to cool them down, once got the colour starting grooming the hairs in the wrong direction and really start coating the hairs from the root and really push them down and then push them up then taking through brow gel through the brow and if it was to start looking a little yellow, use a matte nude shadow and lightly dust over the bleached brow.

To finish the look Branka applied mascara to the lashes to really open the eye and for the lip chose to apply a nude lip with a gloss on top otherwise it could give quite a dull look, mixing the models colour foundation with a pink to give warmth and applied this to the lip and adding a lip balm on top to give a slight lift.For the blush Branka used a coral cream blush getting her model to smile and applying to the apple of the cheek and then buffing this into the cheek giving a bit of colour for the finishing touch of the bleached brow look.

( With flash )

( No flash )

 

Term 2 Hair: plaits by me

So to start term 2 in fashion hair Emma demonstrated to us all different types of plaits from French plaits, fish tail plaits, 2 section plaits, and water fall braids so in the next 2 weeks my posts will consist of different plaits some I've done before and some I will attempt which I've not done before.

                                                                   French plait

First I started off with a basic French plait starting from the top of my head leading down to the back of the nape using 3 sections of hair.

( Fig 1 model Rebecca Menou, stylist Sophie Anders )

Fish tale plait 

I've never applied a fish tale plait before so I first started with brushing all my models hair back and taking this into a pony once applied this I sectioned the pony into two sections and then taking a small piece from the right side over the right section of hair taking this to the centre and then doing the same but with the left side section and as I carried this on I started to form my fish tale plait.

( Fig 2 model Rebecca Menou, stylist Sophie Anders )

This time I wanted to try a fish tale but without putting in a pony to help, I brushed all the hair out and sectioned my models hair into a middle parting taking this down to the nape having my two sections I started to apply my fish tale starting just above the nape by taking a small strand from under the right section taking it over the section into the middle and the repeating this with the left section of the hair carrying this on down the hair but this time I made it more loose and messy look by using the end of my tail comb to create this look.

( Fig 3 model Rebecca Menou, stylist Sophie Anders )

And then to change this style with a bit of a twist, with the both loose sides I carefully pulled them out and then starting from the front of the head twisted the hair to the head leading towards the fish tale and once got to the fish tale tucked the ends into the middle gripping these in so you cant see, making it as 1 hair style.

( Fig 4 model Rebecca Menou, stylist Sophie Anders )

Term 2 Hair: Plaits

For our first lesson back Emma demonstrated  plaits that could be worn in fashion showing us different types such as:

• French braid or know as a French plait that consists of 3 sections of hair that is braided together from the crown of the head to the nape of the models head.

• Fish tale plait is created by the hair being sectioned into 2 sections then taking a small piece from the outside of one of the two main sections and bring to the inside of the opposite section, then repeating this on the other section and then pulling this tight, and carrying this on to the end of the models hair some people keep it neat, or you can use a tail comb to loosen the plait.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        
• Water fall plait can be a bit more fiddly than the other two above but once applied looks beautiful and once applied can curl the ends making it look a really pretty style to wear. To apply this you start off near the models hairline using three sections like you would to create a French plait, cross the section that is closest to the top of the models head over the middle section, then cross the new top section over the new middle and then the bottom over the middle and then drop the middle section down  so then will blend in with the rest of the hair so when finished you can apply curls to finish the look.        

• Four section braid is similar to a French plait but adding that extra section but giving it a twist, to apply this style by starting with your four sections, with your two inner sections ( 2 and 3) first with section three going under section one and then section two going under three and over four and then you start to carry this all the way down the hair till the end result.

• Two sectioned plait giving a twisted look by simply sectioning the hair into two sections and plaiting with these two sections like you would a normal plait but this time just with two sections giving the final out come a twisted braid effect.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         All visited on 29/01/2016 at 15.47
• fig 1 - https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/1a/Classic_French_Braid.JPG
• fig 2 - http://images.totalbeauty.com/uploads/editorial/lg420x280/how-to-do-a-fishtail-braid-tutorial-step-by-step.jpg
• fig 3 - http://beautyandfashion.me/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/Waterfall-braid-crown.jpg
• fig 4 - https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/04/af/ca/04afcaa2744ddf8727d238c8b5d5e51c.jpg
• fig 5 - http://s3.hubimg.com/u/4921590_f248.jpg

Contrasting colours by me

So in our demo Branka demonstrated a contrasted make up look that would fit for the cat walk! For my chosen colours I also chose  purple and yellow but instead of yellow I chose purple for the lid as I felt it would stand out on her skin tone better and then applied the yellow for under the eye.

Firstly I started off by of course making sure my models face is a fresh canvas to work on as any left over make-up could ruin my application, once I took off all make-up I applied astral an moisturiser to the models skin as this wether was slightly showing on the skin giving slight dryness in some areas once applied to let this soak into the skin I went on to applying my eyes using my white from the kroylan palette using a flat brush to lightly apply this product to my models lid taking it no further than the crease once applied to both lids I used morphe shadow pallet that is already great in pigment but as soon as I started to press my purple into the white it picked it up straight away giving such a gorgeous intense purple pressing this into the lid just taking this to the crease and slightly buffed it out and then very lightly buffed cork into the crease for under the eye I did forget to go in with the white grease paint and just used yellow from the morphe pallet taking this under the water line with the colour still being bold as the pallet seems to be high in pigments once applied I went on to applying the liner but in the past I have used MAC black track but if you've read my later blog post's you would of seen I'm most definitely not a fan and this time used inglot black gel liner that I found was more of a black, black in one stroke instead of the black track being a weak black appearance. Taking the liner half way of the winged out eye giving a Sharpe flick to really finish this contrast look I've applied.
For the brows I used MAC brun shadow mixing this with a small amount of water so it turns into a paste applying to the brow with a MAC angled brow brush which has become one of my favourite brushes!! Helps give a strong brow as I wanted to give the brow quite a strong appearance so filled the brow mainly mid to end of brow with the front more faded, and then applied mascara to top and bottom lashes with MAC mascara.

Moving onto the models base I wanted a full coverage look like Branka applied but as I didn't have the foundation in my kit that was used in the demo, the next best thing was MAC full coverage which I feel works well when applying a full coverage look but to work with applying less and buffing out onto the skin as it can look too heavy otherwise and that's not the look I'm going for, but a flawless look. Using the colours NC15 and NC25 mixed together will the smallest amount of NC35 to just add a hint of warmth from my MAC full coverage range. Buffing and blending out the product into the skin once I was happy with the application of the base I then went onto applying contour to give structure of the face using La girl pro concealer in colour toast with have not used this before it was a nice product to use but most definitely a little goes a long way, buffing this into the skin making sure its not making the face look dirty as sometimes this can happen if not applied well, once I was happy I applied a small amount of highlight to the area's I wanted to bring forward using MUA highlighting shimmer stick that gives a soft touch and is a new product I have recently brought as was recommended by Branka and is a lovely buy for the price!! Once all the base, contour and highlight have been applied I set the skin with Kroylan translucent product just lightly dusted over the face and also dusted a slight contour powder nothing heavy just a slight dust of MAC shadester to the contoured areas, for the lip I just applied carmex lip balm to the lips with my ring finger to finish my look off.

Products used:

Base: MAC full coverage, NC15, NC25, and NC35

Eyes: Kroylan white grease paint, morphe palette purple and yellow

Crease: MAC cork 

Liner: Inglot black gel liner

Mascara: MAC mascara

Contour: La girl shade toast , contour shadow shadester

Highlight: MUA shimmer stick shade light

Powder: Kroylan translucent powder

Lip: Carmex lip balm

Evaluation

With this make-up look I really enjoyed applying applying this look as I think it good to play with colour seeing what works well and what doesnt. In the demo Branka showed us by using yellow on the lid and purple under the eye which really worked well, and when I had my model in the seat I thought the purple would work great against her skin tone and really compliment the eyes but instead of having the purple under I took the purple to top of the lid and having the yellow underneath, and I just loved how much the contrasting colours really brought out my models eye's making them the main feature as this was my my intention to make this the main focal point of my make up look. To make it more high fashion look I blended the colour right into the corners of the eyes giving a really striking look. I overall loved applying this look and if I was to do this again I would of taken a slight more contour to the forehead just to bring it in more and should of concealed the small blemish on the side of the cheek as it does show through a little still, but the eyes I was really happy with overall out come and working with intense colour.

Demo: Contrasting colours

So for our first lesson back after Christmas we were delivered our new brief for term 2 and shown our first demo of 2016 showings from now on till our hand in date looks, tips and ideas that will influence our final assessment creating our own magazine front cover!

So to kick off the term Branka showed us a contrast eye look, by starting off with taking off all her models make up making sure she had a clean base to work on. Then to prep the models skin but today not using moisturiser like she normally would but used MAC strobe cream to give the skin more of a hydrated and glossy look applying this to the models face with a foundation brush. For the eye colour Branka chose purple and yellow as her contrasting colours using the variety bright palette as the pigment was such a strong Sharpe colour specially when Branka applied white from our kroylan grease palette to the lid to enhance the pigments of the shadow but as this is a grease base its not advised to use for long term wear as the grease will break the make-up down ruining the full face so advised if was for long wear maybe to use MAC painterly paint pot that will still give the same effect but give that longer wear. Applying to the lid first applying all over up to the crease not too much though as less is more and then with her ring finger buffed the white out really gently press out. Once applied the grease paint to the lids loaded her brush up with yellow pigment not blending in but pressing into the lid and building as this gives a a bold colour and because there's no base she just buffed out, and because Branka likes the eye to look sculpted went in with a slight contour sleek medium applying slightly into the crease , then underneath applied minimum grease paint getting her model to look up working it onto the water line and just underneath then same technique but this time applying her purple wanting it to glide on, if gets a bit messy don't worry you can always get a cotton bud to clean up any drop age hence why the foundation is left till after the eye's when applying an eye look like this contrasting colours.

Next for the skin, Branka wanted to create beautiful skin and used kroylan ultra very similar to full coverage but a little more glossier, mixing the colour of her models skin tone being quite quite applied where she wanted the product ( bridge nose, cheek, forehead and chin ) and buffering it out into the skin with being pretty much done not being heavy with it as said before less is more, as this product is quite thick and full coverage Branka wouldn't use a additional product to conceal as the foundation gives an overall great coverage she is looking for.
Next adding highlighter using top shop gleam beautiful golden highlighter applying with the same foundation brush used to apply the base. adding to top of cupids bow, side of cheeks just under the brow, just buffing that away then setting the make-up very lightly with a translucent powder illmasque invisible, for contour used a cream contour keeping it really simple applying to the shaded areas, below the cheekbone, both sides of the bridge of the nose, top of the forehead and slightly the jawline.
Then started to buff a little bit of strobe cream on top of the face to give extra highlight almost looking as it was glossy but not giving that oily impression.

Brows Branka used a flat brush , started brushing the, up with the gel to get them started and get that shape for the corners mixing MAC brun and tope shadows to get that nice brow colour for her model, brushing up and filling where needed. Now for the lip she wanted to go really natural using left over foundation mixing with a slight peach colour as she just wanted to create a natural stained lip pressing into the lips finishing the lip with some gloss from MAC again pressing into the lip to finish the look.