Demo: Classic contour

For classic contour highlighted the models areas she wanted to bring forward using NC/5 if not light enough added clown white from palette supercolour as wanted to make the highlighted areas 3 shades lighter than the models skin tone.

Highlight and contour tips;

1. Highlight the areas you want to bring forward 3 shades lighter than the models skin tone.

2. Middle shade make 3 shades warmer than the models skin tone.

3. Dark shade of the contour make 5 shades warmer than the models skin tone.

Once applied highlighter certain areas she wanted to bring forward on the models face, started buffing in lightly to the models skin, once buffed into the skin Branka started concealing under the eye just to take out any darkness.
Now creating her grey tone contouring colours as your creating almost a shadow colour for the models contour. Applying her dark shade under the highlighter and bringing it up and around the highlighter that is top of the cheek bone onto the temples on the forehead, starting to buff into the skin lightly once this was all buffed and blended well blot powder MAC was applied and then went in with contour colour sculpt to deepen the models contour giving more structure to the models face, once applied to all shaded/contoured areas added MAC shimmer to highlighter areas bringing more forward! Blusher applied getting the model to smile and applying using the powder blush dolly mix.
To finish the look using strobe on her ring finger to give extra highlight and giving a spray to the models face of rose water.

This image above I've inserted isn't very clear so I have tried to make the image bigger but still only slightly shows the highlighting areas, but you can kind of make out where the highlighting areas have been mapped out on the models skin.

This image helps to show the highlighted areas as this stage the contour colour was applied to the models contour areas mainly focusing on under the cheekbone and up onto the temple.

the image above showing the skin now been powdered using blot powder MAC and sculpt in MAC to above the deepen the contour/shaded areas I think in the image gives structure specially the cheekbones really come out to you in this image.

Final look of classic contour.

Demo: Highlight and contour

Before applying any make up to the face Branka prepped her skin by cleansing her models face and while doing this she was looking at the skin to see what skin type her model was, with her model being a combination she found some dry areas so Branka applied moisturiser to overcome these dry parts on her models face.
After prepping her models face, Branka concealed her model mixing D7,D3,D32 on the back of hand mixing a concealer right for her models tone. Applying this to under the eye using a fluffy brush to blend in taking it up to the models lid and buffing out. Which then Branka mixed a peach and a moiv colour next to her dema and then mixed a bit together to get a warmer tone, and if not warm enough she would add peach by its self.
Once applied her conceal she applied C1 face and body straight by warming on the back of her hand and then applying to the face buffing into the skin with a fluffy brush in circular motions.

When the skin was prepped, concealed, foundation applied was time for highlighting and contouring the models face with the grease palette first mixing the contour shade using the colours, beige, red brown, brown, yellow, grey, pink, yellow mixing a colour that is 4/5 shades up from the skin tone as when creating the contour your wanna make it abit of a grey tone as its a shade we want to create! So with our contour shade being mixed Branka first applied white grease paint ( highlighter )

Applying the highlighter to the areas you want to bring forward, top of the cheek bone, brow bone, bridge of the nose following up to centre of the forehead, chin Next to apply the contour.

Applying the contour to areas you want more depth, under the cheek bone going from top of the ear to the mouth, socket line, jawline and the temples. If the model has small temples highlight loads if you can fit 2 fingers there bit of shade and highlight if large shade the temples. With Brankas model her temples were large you can see Branka puts a strike of shade colour on the temple ready for when she buffs and blends out.

Branka first blended the highlight first in small stokes making the highlight noticeable not heavy blending upwards, she then got rid of any excess on the brush then started buffing into the skin adding strobe cream over the highlighted areas to make it dewey.

Moving on to the brows after finished the base she brushed through the brows and putting some product through them giving a bit of colour using D15 brushed through the brow.

For blush using a peachy colour twiggy and please me getting the model to smile applying to the apples of her cheeks then to buff out, before photograph using rose water then sprayed over the models face giving her that wet dewey look ready for camera!

Hair by me : Wet set

Health and safety

Before every treatment I will carry out risk assessment this meaning checking my work station making sure is safe for myself, client, and work colleagues surrounding my work area.
Firstly I make sure all bags are tucked under nothing out on the floor causing a hazard and no hot applicants leads on the floor causing anyone to trip making the risk much less. Then making sure no coats are over the chair or on my station and are hung up and out of the way. If any spillages making sure moped and wet floor sign is made present. Once making sure my area is hazard free I will make sure my clients chair is at the right height so when my client is seated they wont be too high as you need the model to be seated low as your have more control over styling your models hair. When styling you must always only use heated applicants that are in good working ordered and have passed as they should be checked every 6 months so they are safe to use.
If an hazard is identified you must let all your work colleagues aware of this hazard and letting know who is in charge so the hazard can be resolved either to be repaired or replace causing no harm to yourself client or colleagues.  

                                                     

                                                                     Wet set

                                              

After Emma had done the demo to the class, was our turn to create a wet set. Starting first with getting my section on top of the models head starting in the middle making our sections no more of  the width and no longer than the length of the roller. At first getting the right amount for my section I kept taking to much width but I wouldn't roll it till I felt I done the right section. Once I was happy with my section I sprayed my section so this gives the wet set we aiming for. In this part of creating my section I found keeping my tail comb in my hand all the way throughout very hard as I just kept wanting to put it down but keeping in your hand is useful so you can keep the ends in so I don't create any fish hooks. And feel this is something I need to practice on, also keeping my sections straight all throughout. I took pictures of the process and you can see from the first sets I done as I you go down the head my sets are neater and my sections are too! One of my biggest improvements I need to make is my timing as I feel very slow to the rest of my class, but I know with practice this will improve in all the areas I've spoken about where I feel there's room for improvement.

Above in the first picture is example of too much length meaning longer than the roller causing the hair to over hang on the roller, which I then undone my set and re-sectioned and my outcome was the below image that shows out the set should be and not the image above.

Finally finished my set which I applied as a brick set as I didn't want an uniform set as when I came to take my rollers out and dress out I didn't want it uniformed curls but by setting in brick set when taking out and dressing the hair will give more movement to your final look.

Above in the top image showing the portable heater dry my created set, I was a bit slower than everyone else meaning my model didn't have as much time under the heat, but Emma's main focus with us girls was to put in a perfect set which I wouldn't say my set was perfect as there s room for improvement such as keeping each set neat, sections all neat making each set consistent.

Image below that I took showing when I first checked to see if my rollers had cooled down because if I was to take out before my rollers had cooled would cause for the curl to drop! Due to me being slower I had to take out before my rollers had cooled, so did give a good curl as I think some rollers had cooled but the majority of them had that drop look which you can see in the image below and is an example how the curl shouldn't look 

 

Products and  tools used:

Setting spray

tail comb

heated rollers

heated roller pins

denman brush

Evaluation 

My final outcome after brushing out the set gave me a nice flow to the hair, and I do feel I gave this a really good shot for my first time doing a wet set I did find it quite a fiddly style to create, with having to keep tension on your section at all time, rolling the hair and also keeping putting your tail comb through the roll keeping all the ends in. I did find it all quite hard to begin with but as I went down the head I was becoming more confident in my set!

I do need more practice as my time was quite slow and more practice with keeping the tail comb in my hand throughout, by I was quite happy with my overall outcome in wet setting. Next time using heated rollers I really do need to pick up my pace as I feel I'm a perfectionist as this is resulting in me being so slow! My main goal is to have my speed sorted by time of my formative in fashion hair and to keep learning with my tail comb in my hand throughout applying my roller set as it helps you so much keeping your rollers neat and to final fish hooks at the end result!

Fashion Hair first practical demo

For our first practical lesson with Emma she demonstrated a wet brick set to us, this meaning Emma started by brushing the dolls hair back and starting from the front sectioning for her first roller, the section would be no bigger than the width of the roller and no longer than the length as this would cause over hang on the roller not giving you your perfect set. After getting her right amount of section Emma then sprayed her section,2 sprays not too close as she didn't want to soak the hair for the set as will take longer to set!
Rolling her section up keep bringing her tail comb in to keep the ends in otherwise could cause the hair to create a fish hook at the end of the hair when the roller is taken out. A fish hook in the hairstyling term is the ends of the hair don't really curl and become more of a "fish hook" and this is because when the ends aren't kept being fed in with your tail comb do create this to your set.
As Emma kept rolling up her hair she always kept tension on her section so this gives it a tight hold and by doing this creating a tighter curl. After she got to the end of her first wet set row on top of the dolls head, this is where Emma started to start her brick set showing in the quick sketch I drew below

The reason for brick setting is so when the hair is taken out its not in sections of straight rows, but with a brick set the sections will fall into a nice flow. Once Emma had finished her wet brick set she used a portable head dryer to set her models hair to dry.

After applying the portable heater to the wet brick set and leaving to dry for about 30 minutes, when the set is dry and checked so, Emma unpinned her rollers starting from the bottom and  working her way up the head. Creating these beautiful curls, using a Denman brush to brush out ready for dressing the hair.

After brushing the set out, Emma dressed the models hair out as the bigger rollers gave more of volume on top creating into smaller giving a fashionable style for today.

Base's applied by us ...

Health and safety

Before every treatment I will carry out risk assessment this meaning checking my work station making sure is safe for myself, client, and work colleagues surrounding my work area.
Firstly I make sure all bags are tucked under nothing out on the floor causing a hazard, making sure no coats are over the chair or on my station and are hung up and out of the way. Once making sure my area is hazard free I will make sure my clients chair is at the right height so when my client is seated they will be at eye level. This is so its comfortable for my clients and myself as the chair being at the wrong height can cause me to lean and hunch my back a lot throughout the treatment, when your back should always be in a straight posture so this doesn't create any health problems for yourself later on in life.

Above I have inserted two images showing how your posture should be throughout all treatments and how you shouldn't stand throughout as this can cause your back to hunch and cause back pain later on in life.

When nearly ready to start a treatment its always IMPORTANT to wash your hands as you don't want to be touching your clients face without your hands wash as you could be carrying germs to their face, always handy to also keep a small bottle of hand sanitiser on your station if needed to use throughout the treatment.
Each treatment you should never use the same brushes on all of your clients ALWAYS clean brushes for every single client as you should never use dirty brushes. When applying your products to your client you shouldn't dip your brush into your product for example dipping your lip brush into your lipstick and then onto your models lip and back to the lipstick as this is cross contamination, the safe way is to use a spatula taking a laying of your product onto the back of your washed clean hand and working from that than rather working from the products container this will the cross out any contaminations in your treatment. After doing all this should be a no hazard and safe way to carry out your treatment.

                                               Base's

After Branka's demo we all got the chance to create both the looks, doing the step by steps shown throughout the demo. First creating the more natural look preparing my models skin, toning the face taking any make up off following moisturising the skin mainly the forehead, nose and both sides of the lower jawline near the models side burns, this is so that my models skin is prepared ready for the base application because if the skin is not prepared correctly it can ruin the overall application for example if I didnt apply mosituriser to the areas that needed and left the skin and went straight in with my application . I found the models skin very dry in those pacific areas, after adding more moisture to try to over come these dry areas I then broke down my models skin tones to mix my concealer for my model using warm undertone and yellow neutral when mixed I applied to under the eye getting my model to look down, so I knew where needed applying also correcting around the mouth in areas and the forehead, then reason for me correcting the skin is so when I apply face and body I would have balanced out the mixture of tones making into one consistent tone through out and not a mixture . Mixing face and body ( N7,C4 ) these are quite warm tones as my model had more of olive skin, I applied to models jaw to see if correct skin matched, and buffing out onto the skin. Face and body is quite a thin and runny foundation but is good to use in looks like this as its light coverage but you build and is a foundation I need to work with more and learn how to work with the product as I've always been one to use more of a full coverage i.e MAC full coverage. Once I was happy with my application of face and body I applied strobe cream to bring elements of the face out to then setting my models skin with mac prep and prime but only lightly dusting the face noting too heavy as we are keeping this look natural.
                                             



                                           

  

Products used:

Concealer: warm undertone + yellow neutral tone

Base: N7, C4

Highlight: strobe cream MAC

Setting powder: prep + prime

Brows: brow gel MAC

Evaluation

Above I have inserted images to show the natural look I created on my model using face and body, on my model I felt I didn't apply enough concealer specially I found the forehead and the jawline skin tone a lot darker to rest of the skin and I did find it hard to conceal all the different skin tones on the models face,  felt the skin still looked quite dry so if I was to do this look on this model again I would make sure I have argan oil in my kit this time and use this on my models skin hoping it will hydrate the skin more than just the moisturiser as the oil tends to lock in moisture giving correct prepped skin. The face and body did give more coverage than I expected and next time will be better when the conceal of the skin is more! I found the bottom image on the right side of the face does give a flawless look from the eye down but from the eye upwards not so much, so I will concentrate more next time with concealing the skin as I did find the forehead really hard to work with.

Dewey skin (glowing)

Same prep as I done with my natural look, taking off any left over make-up with pad and toner following with moisturising the skin specially focusing on the models dry areas nose and forehead, for this look it was going to be a more heavy dewey look on the model to create this look I used full coverage MAC , I mixed a very small amount NW35 , NW25 mixing this on the back of my hand and then applying to my models jaw line to see if I had the correct colour match it was slightly too dark so I added a little bit of NC15 just to lighten a little then reapplied finding this far more of the skin tone for the model, I added small amounts to the face patting in areas that I felt needs coverage and buffed it out across the models face, with the full coverage I concealed on top of the foundation again finding it quite hard with the models forehead as its such a darker tone to the rest of the models face, when Branka passed I explained I was finding it hard to conceal this area of the models skin. she then shown me using dema colour D32 and D9 together and mixed these two concealers mixed together should help cancel out the darker tones and applied to the area which did help loads in that area but she said she would normally with this apply under the full coverage foundation to really cover the dark skin tone. I found this help really useful and if I came to this situation again or do this models foundation again I will know exactly what to do and what products to use to over come this. Then applying strobe cream but this time at a 10 pence size to the back of my hand and i then using my ring finger started to apply to parts of the face to make them pop! I then applied a small amount of prep and prime powder to set the skin but using hardly any product as this look is more of a dewey , glowing look for camera.

Products used:

Concealer: D32, D9

Base: full coverage MAC, NW35, NW25, little of NC15

Highlight: strobe cream MAC

Brows: brow gel MAC

Setting powder: Prep + prime

Evaluation

Above I've inserted images showing the full coverage look, I liked using this foundation as I felt it gave more coverage than the face and body which I like, but I don't feel it gives much of a dewey look so next time I would use even less powder, next to nothing as I must of powered the model more than I should of, and spraying more rose water to the skin to finish the look making it more of the dewey. I was really happy with what Branka showed me with the dema colour because on the bottom picture if you compare the left side (full coverage) to the right side of the picture (natural) the models forehead on the left concealed area is more of a success than the right side still showing the dark skin tone through the face and body, so in future I will be using this technique if I came across this again. I also found my models skin really dry in areas and the moisturiser help a bit throughout this treatment but still found the skin dry looking dry on the forehead so I will be getting argon oil for my kit for when I have models/clients with quite dry skin as I felt the moisturiser didn't hydrate my models skin as much as I wanted it to. Overall the perfect base was harder in some areas for me but I learnt throughout this treatment how I could overcome these next time.

 

Above I have inserted an image I came across on Google showing a dewey glow look that I feel in my final images didn't  show so much of the glowing image I was hoping for, this would be more of the skin I would be working towards next time if I was to create this look again.

First practical lesson "Base's"

For our first practical lesson Branka showed us how to get the perfect base for two different looks the dewy look & natural look, as its important to have a perfect base as Branka quoted in the lesson "you could have the perfect eye, lip but if you don't have the perfect base it just doesn't work." So this lesson was important for us all to learn the techniques shown by Branka.

First Branka showed us the natural look, & to create this look she firstly cleansed the skin looking at the models undertones, after this she had a feel of the models face to see what skin type she was whether the model was dry, oily or combination. The model was combination this meaning the model has a mixture of skin type between oily and dry, some areas are dry and oily giving you combination skin. After finding the models skin type Branka applied lightly facial oil ( 1 drop of argan oil ) to the models face , & if dryness was still appearing on parts of the models face she would apply 1 more drop of oil, but would never use more than 2 drops as could cause the skin to be too oily. When applying the oil Branka took it down the face & then up on the neck.
After prepping of the skin, followed concealing areas of the skin with a light base you conceal first, with branka using warm undertone and yellow neutral starting to work the colours together into the back of her hand creating her concealer colour suitable for the models undertones.
She applied under the eyes getting the model to look down so you can see where concealer needs applying, when Branka could see where needed applying she buffed the product into the skin under the models eyes making sure was all blended into the skin as it should never be heavy under the eyes.
Then applied anywhere else she felt needed concealing making sure all buffed into the skin using circular motions with her brush, with then adding medium concealer to lift & give it a minute to then settle and buff out.

Moving on to now applying the foundation face and body mac (C3 base undertone & N9 pink tone ), starting to mix these off the back of hand creating the colour and looked at her model taking a look at the models skin tone, when Branka felt she mixed the right colour she tested this on her model by putting a sample on the jawline to see if matched to models neck, cause was a good match she applied to the models face with a synthetic blush brush to buff the product into the skin.
when the foundation was applied then was added strobe cream mac to bring elements of the face out (bridge of the nose, above the cheekbones), to finishing the perfect base she lightly powered the face with mac prep & prime to set the foundation in place.


Above I've inserted two pictures showing of the right side of the models face in a more natural coverage using face and body, I'm not a big lover of face and body as I don't feel it gives much coverage when I've used it before , but Branka gave us a tip if you keep mixing it up on the back of your hand it starts to thicken and not so runny and after Branka finished this base it gave full coverage, but as you can see in the top picture gives coverage but still looks natural and not heavy.

Dewey base (glowing)

For this look Branka started again with prepping the skin, adding some oil to the nose as she still found the models nose to still be quite dry. For this look it was a more heavier look using mac full coverage. Breaking down the models skin so she could skin match the right colour using the foundations, NC35 & NW45 mixing the colours on the back of the hand when done she applied to the forehead and chin to make sure was a correct colour match to the models skin tone, with the foundation being the right colour match she started to apply small amounts were need coverage and buffed out over the skin, for this look Branka concealed after applying the foundation then applying more strobe to areas (10 pence size) then to set the skin with prep and prime but hardly anything as this is a Dewey look (glowing) for camera. By finishing the whole look Branka applied give me sun bronzer (Mac) buffing into the back of her hand the applying where the sun would hit barely touching the face making a sun kissed look, adding illuminating bronzer lightly on top to make summer Dewey skin pop through. For the brows she groomed through them with a brow brush then applying clear brow gel, with the cheek adding peach to the apples of the cheek and buffing out, finishing the look with adding peach to the lip, adding some gloss on top.

Above I have inserted images that show the more Dewey side and also took a picture in natural light above and the image below in artificial light, in the final images I didn't think I would say this but I prefer the face and body as I'm not as keen on the Dewey heavier look as I feel the skin looks more oily/greasy but it does work great for fashion shoots wanting more of a glow look on camera!

Make up artist inspiration continued....

I have inserted some of my favourite makeup's by Norah also Stuart being the photographer for most of them! Their work together really does inspire me with the colour, abstract, & strong caption of each image both of their work together compliment each other so well! 





Make up artist inspiration, Norah Nona

                                                                       Norah Nona

Norah Nona is a London based fashion make up artist who as been in the industry for 30 years, first working as a hair dresser then starting out on test shoots, where her make-up skills became of a higher standard

which then lend her to make-up for TV and film going back to fashion and working in fashion for

the last 20 years.

How did Norah Nona become such an inspiration to me? In 2010 I was studying at Poole & Bournemouth arts college were I found such a passion for fashion photography, there was one fashion photographer in particular Stuart Weston who's work always caught my eye and I could look at for hours just image after image was never a dull photograph always so colourful, and such strong structure to the image Stuart would always bring his all to each photograph taken!

So one day I contacted Stuart Weston and asked if I could come and help on one of his shoots to gain some experience and get to work along side such a talented man with Stuart saying yes to me, few weeks later I was on my way to London to help out on set for Toni and guy hair awards 2010. Helping the set up of the shoot along side Stuarts best friend who is also a photographer Colin Ellis & two more other students who's in the same shoes as me wanting to gain some experience. After helping the set up we got to take a look what was going on behind the scenes getting to see the stylist's give the models their outfits, hairstylist's creating their competition style's & Nora Nona doing her thing and I took a moment to take in all this amazing creative skills happening around me thinking this is the industry I want to work in, and meeting Norah in person seeing her work and then see her work come alive in front of the camera just felt so unreal seeing all this for the first time!

Seeing all this I was so torn as I loved fashion photography in college but styling my models for my photography projects made me realise that was the career I wanted to be in and taking my portfolio along to Stuart & Colin both took a moment to go through my portfolio, saying they seen potential in me but also could see I had a passion for the make up side is well as! And after amazing day and having a good chat after the shoot it led me in more of a direction and I couldn't thank Stuart enough because he inspired me so much and was hoping to go on shoot with him now I live in the big smoke but unfortunately he passed this year and only meeting with Stuart the once and talking over Facebook now and then this man inspired me so much and I wouldn't of met Norah if it wasn't for that day and seeing her work on set and researching her after and thinking she is the make up artist of Stuart Weston so out there and creative within her work! so I guess these two creative artists in make up and photography have inspired me to get to where I am now & never to give up!